To see a caracal on safari, phone a friend!
Most people lucky enough to go on an African safari expect to see the big cats. Africa has three species, the lion, cheetah and leopard. During the twentieth century the number of lion and cheetah has plummeted. Yet, in many reserves, there is still a good chance of finding a lion pride laying in the shade or occasionally, a cheetah, using a termite mound as a lookout spot before winding its way through corn coloured grass in search of a meal.
Ironically, the leopard exists in greater numbers but is secretive and much harder to find. Unless you go to Sabi Sabi in South Africa, which has a high density of leopards who have over decades been extensively studied and are habituated to jeeps and cameras clicking away, it is really difficult to see and photograph the private life of this cat. When I have seen a leopard it has been because of the immense skill and local knowledge of my guide, or through sheer luck!
I was having such a conversation about Africa’s cats, with my friend and professional guide/photographer Marc Lindsay-Rea, whilst searching for cheetah cubs in Phinda Reserve. I mentioned that I had never been lucky enough on safari to see either of the middle sized species of cat, serval or caracal in the wild. Even Marc had rarely seen them, and always it was by luck and fleetingly. I commented that I’d love to photograph the caracal in the wild, with its huge ear tufts and tawny coat but doubted that it would ever happen.
The next day Marc asked me if my wife and myself would be prepared to miss the afternoon drive as he had arranged a surprise for us. Thus it was that we left Phinda. Marc had phoned a friend who lived close by to the reserve and ran a lodge. He was apparently hand-rearing two orphaned caracal kittens which Marc thought we would like to see. Christmas had come early!
I expected to see two savage kittens in a cage which might provide me with a couple of photos if I could photograph them without the bars or wire ruining the shots. It didn’t turn out like that. Having moved through the attractive lodge to the open, wild area behind, we were asked to wait whilst the owner went to check on the caracals. I don’t know what I expected but it wasn’t the sight of a yellow tennis ball hurtling past my feet with a young, cross eyed caracal in hot pursuit.
This was how we met Dusty and Mila. For an hour these two enchanted us. They loved chasing the tennis ball and with Marc designated as thrower, I could photograph them running, twisting and braking at speed. When momentarily exhausted, they would come and flop down against us in the shade of our bodies and we could watch at close quarters as the wind gently blew their ear tufts in all directions.
All too soon our time was up and we had to leave our new friends and return to Phinda. It was one of my best ever wildlife experiences. I often think of them and hope they’re still enjoying life out in the South African bush but somehow, I don’t think it will be tennis balls that they’ll be chasing!
